My time in Quebec, Canada, has finally come to an end. After spending a few weeks back in the UK, I have taken the opportunity to reflect on what this experience and being a recipient of the John Speak Bursary has meant to me.
Northern lights viewingSoaking it in at Montmorency falls
Hands down the best year of my life!
When deciding where to undertake my placement year, Quebec seemed the obvious choice. This province is full of infinite opportunities, allowing me to push my language skills beyond my comfort zone. Canada, being over 3000 miles from England and not having the reputation of being the cheapest country to live in, meant that I could not have embarked on this journey without the help of the John Speak Foundation. My time in Quebec has been an enriching and transformative experience, filled with opportunities for personal growth. As a recipient of the John Speak Bursary, I was fortunate to immerse myself in the vibrant community of Quebec, gaining valuable insights and skills that will benefit me for years to come.
The bursary provided me with the financial support to undertake a range of activities—primarily focused on language acquisition and academic development. Developing my confidence in French was my primary goal during my time in Quebec. The John Speak Bursary enabled me to support myself financially while enrolled in an immersive language program. Through intensive classes and real-world practice, I significantly improved my language skills. Listening back to my audio reports each month, I can see a remarkable change in both my skills and confidence when speaking French. While I still have a long way to go, I am certainly now on the right track.
Rodeo Mont Sainte-Anne
Valcartier 2025
In addition to language studies, I completed a work placement in a French school. I utilised my language skills to enhance my teaching of English. After gaining confidence in French, I even worked as a supply teacher for French subjects. While only part-time, this placement allowed me to develop my confidence and communicate effectively in a second language. From this experience, I have gained a Canadian family and friends for life.
Thanks to John Speak, Quebec and these experiences will forever hold a special place in my heart.
My Quebec family
The bursary also supported my academic pursuits, one of which was to expand my knowledge of Québécois vocabulary. Upon arriving in Quebec, I was immediately struck by the strong Québécois accent. Twelve months later, I have compiled an extensive list of Québécois phrases that I use in my day-to-day conversations. Words like “niaiser” and “bébelle” are at the forefront of my mind, and I make a point of including a random Quebec word into my conversations whenever I can.
Quebec City (my favourite place in Quebec)
Moreover, thanks to the John Speak Trust, I was able to explore a vast range of places in Quebec. Traveling to new locations and experiencing different seasons brought countless opportunities for learning. For example, I used some of my bursary to buy a second-hand car, which led to many learning experiences—whether it was learning French car terms at the mechanic or seeking help and explaining the problem when I got the car stuck in the snow.
Returning after a snow stormMe and the Bonhomme de neige
I am immensely grateful for the John Speak Bursary, which made this incredible journey possible. Its support not only alleviated my financial burdens but also encouraged me to take risks and engage fully in this experience. Through this opportunity, I have developed language proficiency and cultural understanding and honed skills that will benefit me in my future academic and professional endeavors. The John Speak Bursary was a key element in my Canadian journey, allowing me to seize new opportunities, embrace challenges, and grow in ways I never imagined possible. As I work towards my career in international business, I carry with me the lessons learned and the connections made, inspired to work hard and continue learning.
My time in France has allowed me to develop in so many ways, and I want to thank the John Speak Foundation bursary for playing a huge role in keeping me on top of my language-learning whilst studying my Master’s. The monthly blogs have kept me focused and allowed me to build my written language skills, especially when it came to expanding my vocabulary and being able to articulate my views on the key issues of our time in French. My check-ins with the Trustees allowed me to review areas for development and encouraged me to embed French into my extra-curricular activities. One of the highlights of my year was taking an architecture course in French which opened me up to a whole different range of arts-based vocabulary and gave me a weekly group immersion experience over the last 6 months.
I have been based in Paris since last August and living with a French room-mate (or “coloc” as we call it here in France!).
As one of the key criteria of the scholarship is to cohabit with a native speakers, I can attest to how valuable it has been to have French embedded in my daily routine at home.
This has really supported my everyday use of the language and my room-mate has been an excellent support when I have had questions about specific vocabulary or grammar. During this period, I am also fortunate enough to have worked in two French-speaking offices, which has really allowed me to understand how the language is used in professional settings.
I have also been lucky enough to visit several other French-speaking cities over the last 11 months; this included Bordeaux, Toulouse and Geneva. It was important for me to experience different areas and visit regions where English is not commonly spoken. All three visits gave me a unique experience of French culture and exposed me to a range of accents which really tested my listening skills and adaptability beyond the more neutral Parisian accent with which I had become familiar.
In August 2023, I arrived in France having studied formally up to level B1 level in the language. The Common European Framework of Reference for Languages described this level of ability as being able “to maintain interaction and get across what you want to.” I am pleased to share that following my final assessments in my French language class, I am now studying at the more advanced C1 level which means I am an independent language-user and can express with a good level of fluency and spontaneity.
In conclusion, my time in France, supported by the John Speak Foundation bursary, has been incredibly important to the development of my French language skills.
The combination of academic study, practical application, and cultural immersion has given me the confidence to continue to pursue French at a high level in the coming years and use the language in a professional capacity. I am immensely grateful for this opportunity and look forward to continuing my French linguistic and cultural journey for years to come.
I would first and foremost like to thank the John Speak Language Trust for supporting me during my experience in France.
Thanks to your support not only have I been able to cover living costs, but I have also been able to explore more of the country and live new cultural experiences.
Visiting a really cool Ancient Egyptian Exhibit!On a day trip to some islands off the coast of Cannes
The opportunity to study abroad has opened my eyes to lots of new experiences such as education in France, French way of life and all the rich cultural experiences France has to offer. It has also been a fairly international experience as I have made friends with French people and with people from all over the world. Furthermore, with Paris being such an international city, I have got to try lots of new cuisines and inventive food such as an 100% vegetarian restaurant where they prepared your food for you on the table! I also visited many museums such as the Louvre, l’Orangerie and the Musée D’Orsay. I also had the chance to visit a once in a lifetime display of Ancient Egyptian artefacts, most of which had never left Egypt before, and learn about the connection Rameses II and how a Frenchman used his name to crack Hieroglyphs in the 1820s.
When I embarked upon my study abroad adventure in Paris, I had no idea what challenges it would bring. Learning how the French university system works, making some mistakes (and getting lost!) and learning how to live in a big international city such as Paris. In recent months, there has also been many strikes in the French capital and, at times things have been very chaotic, but through speaking with locals I have come to see it as a quintessential cultural experience! Given all the French history that I have learned while here I really feel that I have a deep understanding of why strikes and workers’ rights are so important to the French People.
While in France and with the support of the John Speak Language Trust, I was able to travel to lots of different places for the first time.
Trying French Cuisine!In the beautiful village of Eze!
I was able to visit a friend who was studying abroad in Lyon twice and she showed me round the beautiful city and let me practice my French with her Host Family which was very interesting as they spoke with a different accent to those from the Parisian region. I also visited Dijon and Versailles. At the end of my time in France I organised a trip to the south of France which was amazing! It was lovely to escape the city for a while and see where French people go on holiday. As I felt quite comfortable navigating the French rail system at this point, my friend and I travelled by train almost everywhere and took some buses in order to get to more hard-to-reach places, such as the medieval village of Èze which I absolutely loved.
All of these experiences which have shaped me, and my knowledge of French and French culture would not have been possible if not for the John Speak Language Trust.
France, particularly Paris, has a higher cost of living than that in the UK and with the help of the Trust I felt a weight off my shoulders which allowed me to make the absolute most of my time abroad.
C’est le début du printemps ici à Paris – les matins deviennent plus lumineux et le soleil se couche plus en plus tard ! Avant que je sois venue à Paris tellement de gens m’a dit comment il est très beau ici pendant le printemps, et je commence à voir ce qu’ils veulent dire. A l’esprit de cette nouvelle aube, j’ai eu un nouveau départ moi-même – j’ai commencé d’aller au cours de forme physique ! C’est un grand nouveau défi pour moi d’essayer de suivre une séance d’entraînement dans ma deuxième langue – j’ai appris beaucoup de vocabulaire nouveau et j’ai même parlé avec l’entraîneuse après un cours du yoga et nous avons eu une conversation au tour des noms des différents muscles dans le corps ! J’apprécie beaucoup apprendre un nouveau don pendant que je passe plus de temps avec des personnes de langue maternelle française. Dans le cadre du travail universitaire il commence d’être plus en plus occupé, j’ai passé mon premier examen en personne dans quatre ans ! Heureusement, il s’est bien passé et je me sens plus confiant a propos du control continu et les examens que j’ai à la fin du mars. Récemment, je me concentrais en essayant de faire des nouveaux rapports dans mes cours, même si j’ai trouvé des amis dans quelques cours, j’ai encore quelques-uns dans lesquels je ne connais personne ! Je sors de ma zone de confort et je fais chaque effort de parler avec les gens, complimenter eux sur leurs chaussures ou demander s’ils savent quelles pages qu’il faut lire pour la semaine prochaine. Je me sens que mon français améliore plus en plus mais je suis maintenant arrivée à l’étape ou j’ai commencé d’oublier des mots en anglais ! Quand les gens me demandent comment dire des choses anglais ou quand je parle à ma famille en Ecosse, je n’arrive pas à rappeler le mot que je veux dire ! Même si de temps en temps cela semble un peu bête, je choisis de voir cela comme un bon signe de mon immersion dans la langue française !
Sunny Brunch with a New Friend!
It is the beginnings of springtime here in Paris – the mornings are getting brighter, and the sun sets later and later! Before I came to Paris so many people told me how lovely it is here in spring, and I am beginning to see what they mean. In the spirit of these new beginnings, I have had some new beginnings of my own – I have started going to fitness classes! This is an exciting new challenge for me to try and follow a workout class in my second language – I have learned lots of new vocabulary and even spoke with the teacher after a yoga session and we had a conversation about the names of different muscles in the body! I am enjoying learning a new skill while spending more time with native speakers. Things are really starting to get busy in terms of university work, I sat my first in person exam in four years! Thankfully, it went well and I feel more confident about the coursework and exams that I have due at the end of March. I have been really focused recently on trying to make new connections in my classes, while I have found friends in a few classes, I still have a few where I don’t know anyone in them! I have been putting myself out of my comfort zone and making every effort to talk to people, compliment their shoes or ask if they know what pages we have to read for next week. I feel my French is getting better and better, but I have got to the stage now where I have begun to forget words in English! When people ask me how to say things in English or when I am speaking to family back home sometimes, I just can’t remember the word I want to say! While this sometimes makes me sound quite silly, I am choosing to look at it as a good sign of my immersion in the French Language!
Je suis très heureuse de vous informer que je suis arrivée à Paris ! J’ai passé mes premières deux semaines en je me repérais dans cette grande ville. C’est incroyable de sentir plus en plus a l’aise en parler français, en lire des pancartes et comprendre des directions quand je les demande ! Je suis arrivée une semaine en avance de la rentrée et j’ai passé ce temps en apprendre à connaitre mon nouveau quartier et en acheter des essentiels pour mon nouvel appartement ! Cependant, je dois admettre que le système universitaire en France a été très difficile à comprendre. Je suis allée au parcours d’intégration et le système n’été pas plus clair à comprendre et je n’ai pas compris ce que j’ai dû faire ! Ensuite, j’ai été informée qu’il y aurait un rendez-vous le jeudi pour tout expliquer mais hélas… il y avait une grève le jeudi et le rendez-vous a été annulé ! Ils nous ont envoyé un courriel avec un lien pour nous nous inscrire au cours mais comme une étudiante étrangère je ne suis pas dans leur système en ligne et je n’ai pu pas m’inscrire. Alors, le vendredi je suis allée à la Sorbonne en personne pour trouver ma coordinatrice pour expliquer ma situation. C’était une expérience intimidante qui fallait frapper au plusieurs portes différentes et expliquer ma situation unique et demander pour l’aide (en français). Heureusement, chaque personne était très gentille et faisait tout qu’elle pouvait à m’aider trouver la personne correcte. Quand j’ai trouvé la coordinatrice, elle a dissipé mes soucis et m’a donné des instructions claires en comment m’inscrire au mes cours.
Assister aux cours cette semaine a été une expérience nouvelle et intéressante pour moi. Je ne suis pas encore sûre de ce que je vais étudier définitivement, mais je me suis intéressée par la littérature du XVIIème et XVIIIème siècles, le journalisme et du cinéma français. Je fais des efforts à parler avec mes camarades de classe français et de devenir ami avec eux. Avec un peu de chance, avant que je soumette mon prochain rapport j’aurais fait des amis avec des Français !
I am very happy to report that I have arrived in Paris! I have spent these first two weeks finding my feet in this big city. It is amazing to feel myself becoming more at ease in speaking French, in reading signs and understanding directions when I ask for them! I arrived a week before classes started and I spent that time getting to know my new neighbourhood and stocking up on essentials for my new flat! However, I must admit that it has been very difficult trying to understand the French university system. I went to the orientation meeting and was still not any clearer on what I had to do! I was then told that there was to be a meeting on Thursday to explain it all but alas… there was a strike on Thursday and the meeting was cancelled! We were sent an email with a link so we could register online but as an external student I do not exist on their online system and was unable to register. So, on Friday I went in person to the Sorbonne to find the coordinator so I could explain my situation. This was a daunting experience as it required knocking on many different doors and explaining my unique situation and asking for help (in French). Thankfully, everyone was so kind and did everything they could to help me find the right person to speak to. When I found the coordinator, she assuaged my worries and gave me clear instructions on how to register for my classes.
Attending classes this week has been a new and interesting experience for me. I am still not quite sure what I will end up studying in the end, but I have been interested in 17th and 18th century literature, journalism and French cinema. I am making an effort to speak to my French classmates and befriend them. Hopefully, by the time I submit my next report I will have made some new French friends!
Bienvenue à l’île de La Réunion! Ce pays est incroyable, merveilleux en fait. Au moment où j’écris, cela fait exactement un mois que je suis arrivée à Saint Denis, la capitale et plusieurs choses se sont passées depuis tout ce temps! J’ai habité toute ma vie à Londres et on peut imaginer le choc culturel que j’ai enduré lorsque je suis venue sur une île se trouvant en plein milieu de l’océan Indien où le mode de vie est complètement différent de la vie urbaine très animée dont je suis habituée. Le choix de la Réunion comme mon lieu d’étude au contraire de la Métropole était l’une des meilleures décisions que j’ai prise. Je n’ai pas un seul regret.
Néanmoins, au début c’était dur. Imaginez-vous voler pendant 16 heures, débarquer sur 3 vols séparés et malheureusement découvrir que votre bagage avait été perdu par la compagnie aérienne? Ensuite, la goutte de trop, vous êtes chasez par des chiens errants sur le chemin du retour vers votre maison? Les premières semaines étaient ÉPROUVANTES, mais nécessaires pour m’améliorer. Pour cela j’avais besoin de penser de manière originale et d’utiliser mon français dans des situations auxquelles je ne m’y attendais pas. Par exemple, pour dire aux locaux “Est-ce que vous pouvez m’aider? J’ai peur de ces chiens!” Mais, je suppose que vous n’avez pas d’arc-en-ciel sans avoir de pluie. Les choses commencèrent à s’améliorer et je suis plus heureuse qu’avant. Heureusement, mes valises ont été retrouvées par la compagnie aérienne le lendemain, et actuellement je me sens très confiante avec ma compétence à parler. Premièrement, je suis rouillée! C’était très difficile de parler en Francais, particulièrement parce que mes cours de français avaient fini en Mars!
Naturellement, comme une bilingue, la peur vient du désir d’éviter de faire des erreurs. Malgré cela, j’ai eu besoin de me rappeler que les erreurs sont normales, l’apprentissage est une expérience et ne peut que s’améliorer pour ce qui est de la maîtrise d’une langue étrangère.
J’ai deux colocataires sympas qui m’expliquent des idioms français autant plus que des coutumes et traditions réunionnaises. Quelques jours après mon arrivée, c’était un jour nationale, le 15 Août, donc j’ai eu un grand déjeuner avec mes colocs et leurs amis, et ensuite on a fait un randonnée pendant 2 heures et on s’est baignés dans un bassin! Tout s’est passé à la capitale aussi! La Réunion est tellement pittoresque, les gens sont beaux, la météo est belle, tout ici est beau !
Je dirais que la chose plus difficile au présent était l’intégration. L’île est si petite, les locaux et étudiants à l’Université restent entre eux, cela fait que c’est très dur d’essayer de s’incruster. L’Université a fait un bon effort d’organiser des événements pour les étudiants étrangers afin de nous intégrer plus facilement. J’ai hâte de savoir ce qu’il va se passer dans les mois à venir. La vibe ici est incroyable. L’Île prône vraiment le multiculturalisme. Apprendre le français avec une vue sur l’Océan Indien? C’est fait pour moi.
ENGLISH:
Bienvenue à île de la Réunion! To the island that majority of people have no knowledge of its existence or where it is situated. Regardless, this country is absolutely amazing. Stupendous in fact. As I am writing this it will have been exactly a month since I landed in the capital Saint-Denis and so much has happened in that time! I’ve lived in London my whole life and you can imagine the culture shock I had coming to an island in the middle of the Indian Ocean where the way of life here is completely different from the hectic, fast-paced urban city life I’m used to. Choosing la Réunion as my place of study as opposed to le Métropole (Mainland France and Belgium) was one of the best decisions I could have made. Not a single regret.
The beginning was rough though. Imagine flying for 16 hours, getting on 3 separate flights only to discover that your baggage has been lost by the airline? Then to top it off, you get chased by stray dogs on your way back to your house? The first few weeks was TRYING, but necessary character building. It required me to think outside the box and use my french in ways I didn’t expect to, i.e. saying to the locals “Est-ce que vous pouvez m’aider? J’ai peur de ces chiens!” But I guess you can’t experience a rainbow without experiencing rain. Things are looking up and I am much happier than I was when I arrived. My luggage was recovered the next morning thankfully, and I am definitely feeling more confident in my language ability. At first I was honestly a little rusty! It was so hard speaking French especially after finishing my French lessons all the way in March! And naturally as a bilingual speaker the fear comes from the desire to refrain from making mistakes. Despite this, I had to remind myself mistakes are normal, learning is a process and failure is part of that! People already appreciate the effort you’re making to communicate with them in a language which is foreign to you, and really you can only go forward when it comes to mastering a foreign language, never backwards.
I have two lovely flatmates who explain french idioms to me as well as Réunionnais customs and traditions. A few days after I arrived, it was a national holiday on the island, 15th August, so we had a massive lunch with my flatmates and their friends, hiked for 2 hours, saw 3 waterfalls and swam in a bassin! All of this was still in the capital as well! Réunion is so scenic, the mountains are beautiful, the people are beautiful, the weather is beautiful, everything here is beautiful!
I would say the hardest thing so far has been integrating. As the island is so small, the locals and students at the university have a very close-knit circle, and it’s been quite tough trying to break into that. Regardless it is possible to do so, everyone here is willing to give you a helping hand and won’t allow you to miss out on the beauty of the island! The university has really done well with organising events for foreign students which has helped us feel more integrated. I am very excited for what is in store for me over these few months! The vibe here is incredible. The island really is a melting pot of different cultures. Learning French with a view of the Indian Ocean? Sounds like a bit of me.
Comme toujours, les deux derniers mois ont filé à toute vitesse. La vie parisienne a devenu normale et c’est même difficile d’imaginer les cours en anglais. Maintenant qu’on est tout à l’aise dans le nouveau rythme de vie je le trouve intéressant de se souvenir à quel point on a amélioré et mûri dans quelques mois. L’apprentissage d’une langue est un processus continuel, mais sans doute ma compétence à l’écoute est mieux que jamais ; et lorsque j’oublie les mots simples en permanence, c’est incroyable de voir le vocabulaire s’élargir chaque jour. La connaissance d’une langue étrangère aide la compréhension de la langue maternelle, et je crois de plus en plus qu’on devrait encourager et soutenir les cours de langues à l’école. Sans mes premiers petits cours de français à maternelle c’est possible que je ne serais pas ici aujourd’hui !
Mais cette année n’est pas seulement la chance d’améliorer une langue, c’est une expérience toute nouvelle d’habiter dans un autre pays et de se préparer pour les choix qui m’attend après université. Sans doute l’expérience la plus difficile, personnellement, est de ne vivre pas avec des amis et famille. Mais toutes les difficultés de cette année sont formatrice et m’aideront dans l’avenir.
Dans tous les moments difficiles et stressants, c’est impossible de rester mécontent pour longtemps quand on est entouré par la beauté de Paris. La façade belle adoré par les touristes n’est qu’une partie de la ville. Paris est une ville composée de communautés vivantes et variés – en marchant on découvre partout les évènements, la musique et l’art. Paris est une ville pleine de culture, et encore mieux, cette culture est apporté à l’espace public.
ENGLISH:
As always, these last two months have flown by. The Parisian life has become normal and its even difficult to imagine classes in English! Now that we have all settled in to the new rhythm of life, I find it interesting to remember just how much we have improved and grown in a few months. Learning a language is a constant process, and without a doubt my listening skills are better than ever, and whilst I constantly forget simple words, it’s incredible to see my vocabulary increase every day. Knowing a foreign language helps us understand our mother tongue, and I believe more and more that we must encourage and support language classes at school. Without my first little French classes in primary school, it’s possible that I would not be here today.
But this year is not just the chance to improve a language, it’s a completely new experience to live in another country, preparing for the choices to come after university. Without a doubt the most difficult experience for myself is to not live with family or friends. But all the difficulties of this year are formative and will help me in the future.
In all the difficult and stressful moments, it’s impossible to stay unhappy for too long, when you are surrounded by the beauty of Paris. The beautiful appearance loved by tourists is only one part of the city. Paris is a city composed of vibrant and varied communities – just by walking you discover events, music and art everywhere. Paris is a city full of culture, and even better, this culture is brought into the public spaces.
Entre le 25 et le 29 juillet de cette année, j’ai eu l’occasion unique de participer aux Fêtes de Bayonne (« Baionako Bestak » en basque) dans le sud-ouest de la France. Ce fut un privilège pour moi de visiter ce magnifique festival qui se déroule sur 5 jours à Bayonne et grâce aux célébrations traditionnelles, c’était le meilleur moyen pour moi de comprendre le cœur de la culture locale pour mes études et d’en faire l’expérience.
Red and white festival goers painted in Bayonne
Origine
Les premières Fêtes de Bayonne se sont passées en 1932 et depuis lors, elles ont été le point culminant de l’année au Pays Basque français. On dit que le festival a été fondé par un groupe d’amis de l’équipe de rugby Aviron Bayonnais. Ces hommes feraient la fête chaque année aux « Fêtes de Pampelune » (San Fermín à Pampelune, Espagne) et ils voulaient créer des célébrations et de la gaieté similaires à Bayonne. Aujourd’hui, on m’a dit que les Fêtes de Bayonne sont devenues le quatrième plus grand festival du monde, attirant plus d’un million de personnes en cinq jours !
Cérémonie d’ouverture
Depuis 1947, le maire de Bayonne confie trois clés aux habitants de la ville en invitant des célébrités à jeter les clés du balcon de la mairie. Ces trois clés représentent les trois quartiers de la ville : Grand Bayonne, Petit Bayonne et Saint-Esprit, ouvrant chaque quartier à se réunir et célébrer le festival comme un seul et avec une identité partagée.
Code vestimentaire
L’identité partagée des visiteurs continue dans leur code vestimentaire. Tout comme la tenue des Fêtes de Pampelune en Espagne, le port du blanc et du rouge pour les Fêtes de Bayonne est respecté par tous. Pour cette raison, personne n’est exclu de la réjouissance du festival qui permet à chacun de célébrer ensemble comme une grande famille et des amis proches. Ce fut une expérience particulièrement gratifiante pour moi suite à mon emploi exigeant en France, parce que j’avais le sentiment que j’avais mérité ces couleurs et alors j’ai été accueilli comme l’un des leurs dans les festivités des populations locales. Comme vous pouvez le voir dans l’image ci-dessous, les festivaliers sont priés de porter des vêtements blancs avec un foulard rouge et une « cinta » (ceinture) rouge complétant le code vestimentaire basque, une coutume officielle du festival depuis la fin des années 60.
Crowds gather at the town hall in Bayonne
Traditions et Coutumes
Au fil des années, de nombreuses activités ont été ajoutées aux diverses coutumes liées au festival. Les traditions les plus significatives, comme les courses de vaches au Petit Bayonne, occupent une place exceptionnelle dans le cœur des habitants. Mes amis et mes collègues de travail m’ont dit cela en me rappelant qu’ils observaient et participaient à cette tradition depuis leur jeunesse.
D’autre part, la corrida fait partie controversée mais intégrante de la culture de Bayonne et de ce festival depuis 1933. J’ai décidé de ne pas regarder une corrida pour des raisons personnelles, mais c’était très perspicace pour moi de connaître les opinions mitigées des populations locales sur cette tradition litigieuse et sanglante. Beaucoup de gens ont discuté de l’importance culturelle de l’événement mais tout de même ont contesté sa cruauté et sa nature barbare qui continue d’être un sujet d’actualité en France aujourd’hui.
Bière
Tout au long des festivités, les boissons alcoolisées à vendre se trouvent PARTOUT dans les rues de Bayonne afin de maintenir la bonne humeur des visiteurs. Néanmoins, un élément très particulier de cette tradition de boire est les « peñas » ou groupes d’artisans individuels qui créent leurs propres mélanges alcooliques locaux et uniques de la région. La bière est servie à partir de leurs propres tonneaux et des spiritueux, des cocktails et des vins locaux peuvent être trouvés partout et chaque peña apporte une touche personnelle à la magie des fêtes.
Somme toute, les Fêtes de Bayonne ont été une expérience incroyable que je n’oublierai jamais ! J’ai appris beaucoup de choses au sujet des populations locales et encore plus sur leurs traditions et la culture basque pendant seulement 5 jours. Mes compétences améliorées en français m’ont permis de rejoindre tout le monde et de me faire de nouveaux amis, ce qui m’aide également à profiter au maximum du festival. Fêtes de Bayonne, j’espère vous revoir l’année prochaine !
Les Fêtes de Bayonne
English:
The “Fêtes de Bayonne”
Between the 25th and 29th of July this year, I had the unique opportunity to attend the Fêtes de Bayonne (“Baionako Bestak” in Basque) in southwest France. It was a privilege for me to visit this magnificent festival which takes place over 5 days in Bayonne and due to the traditional celebrations, it was the best way for me to understand the heart of the local culture for my studies and to experience it first-hand.
Origin
The first Fêtes de Bayonne was in 1932 and since then, it has been the highlight of the year in the French Basque Country. It is said that the festival was founded by a group of friends of the Aviron Bayonnais rugby team. These men would party annually at the “Fêtes de Pampelune” (San Fermín in Pamplona, Spain) and they wanted to create similar celebrations and gaiety in Bayonne. Nowadays, I was told that the Fêtes de Bayonne has become the fourth biggest festival in the world, attracting over a million people in five days!
Opening ceremony
Since 1947, the Mayor of Bayonne entrusts three keys to the city’s inhabitants by inviting celebrities to throw the keys from the balcony of the town hall. These three keys represent the three districts of the city: Grand Bayonne, Petit Bayonne and Saint-Esprit, opening each district to come together and celebrate the festival as one and with a shared identity.
Dress code
Red and white festival goers on a painted wall in Bayonne
The shared identity of visitors continues in their dress code. Exactly like the attire for the “Fêtes de Pampelune” in Spain, the wearing of white and red for the Fêtes de Bayonne is respected by all. For this reason, nobody is excluded from the merrymaking of the festival which enables everyone to celebrate together as a big family and close friends. It was a particularly rewarding experience for me following my demanding employment in France, because I felt that I had deserved these colours and therefore I was welcomed as one of their own into the festivities of the local people. As you can see in the image below, festival goers are requested to wear white clothing with a red “foulard” (scarf) and a red “cinta” (belt) completing the Basque dress code, an official festival custom since the late 1960s.
Traditions and Customs
Over the years, many activities have been added to the many customs related to the festival. The most significant traditions, like cow races in the heart of Petit Bayonne, hold a special place in the locals’ hearts. My friends and work colleagues told me this in remembering to me that they had been watching and participating in this tradition since their youth.
Festival cups for visitors
On the other hand, bullfighting is a controversial yet integral part of Bayonne’s culture and this festival since 1933. I decided not to watch a bullfight for personal reasons, but it was very insightful for me to learn about the local’s mixed opinions on this contentious and bloody tradition. Many people argued the cultural importance of the event but even so challenged its cruelty and barbaric nature which continues to be a hot topic in France today.
Beer
Throughout the festival period, alcoholic beverages for sale can be found EVERYWHERE in the streets of Bayonne in order to maintain the good humour of visitors. Nevertheless, a very special element of this drinking tradition is the “peñas” or groups of individual artisans who create their own local and unique alcoholic blends of the region. The beer is served from their own barrels and local spirits, cocktails and wines can be found all over and each peña brings a personal touch to the magic of the festival.
All in all, the Fêtes de Bayonne was an incredible experience that I will never forget! I learnt so much about the local people and even more about their traditions and the Basque culture over just 5 days. My improved French language skills enabled me to join in with everyone and make new friends, helping me to also enjoy the festival as much as possible. Fêtes de Bayonne, I hope to see you again next year!
Pour les basques, le surf est l'une des activités récréatives le plus importante de la région. La côte du Pays Basque est à environ 200 kilomètres du sud-ouest de la France au nord de l'Espagne, et en raison de la forte houle dans le golfe de Gascogne, il me semble que les populations locales sont vraiment fiers de vivre à proximité des meilleurs endroits de surf en Europe.
Lors d'une excursion d'une journée à Biarritz en avril, j'étais étonné de voir que certaines personnes continuaient à surfer malgré le fort vent et la forte pluie qui créaient des vagues très violentes. Cette expérience m'a prouvé que les basques sont étroitement liés à l'océan et qu'ils le voient comme un refuge et un endroit où ils peuvent s'amuser dans toutes les conditions météorologiques.
Cependant, maintenant que l'été est arrivé, je me sens que les basques sont de plus en plus anxieux de sortir dans l'océan. En discutant avec un ami qui habite à Anglet, une commune du Pays Basque, il m'a dit que les populations locales sont encore plus impatientes de surfer maintenant en raison du grand nombre de touristes et d’amateurs qui bientôt afflueront dans la région. En particulier, j'ai entendu dire que le 14 juillet marque non seulement la fête nationale de la République française, un jour pour commémorer une attaque historique pendant la Révolution française, mais qui marque également le début « officiel » des vacances d'été.
Pour cette raison, mon ami m’a expliqué qu’après cette date l’océan est surpeuplé de surfeurs et la situation deviendra dangereuse. « Quand vous êtes sur votre planche de surf et que vous avez trouvé une bonne vague, la tête de quelqu’un apparaîtra de l’eau devant vous et il faut sauter de la planche pour l’éviter. C’est un truc de fou ! »
Il me semble que cela frustre les populations locales parce qu’elles ne peuvent pas surfer dans l’océan sans le partager avec des touristes qui ne sont pas habitués aux vagues de la région. Je comprends que les touristes voudraient faire l’expérience du surf au Pays Basque pendant leurs vacances d’été, mais je trouve injuste que les basques doivent manquer cette occasion, surtout quand la température de l’eau et les vagues sont parfaites.
Malgré tout, on m’a dit que les écoles de surf reçoivent actuellement de plus en plus de participants pour leurs « cours de surf ». Ces séances sont généralement tenues séparées des zones de surf principales et dans l’eau moins profonde, permettant ainsi aux surfeurs plus avancés et aux populations locales de profiter également des zones qui sont les mieux adaptées à leur niveau. Par conséquent, les touristes et les basques peuvent profiter des magnifiques vagues que cette région offre tout en restant hors de danger et en évitant la confrontation.
Mon ami m’a expliqué que « Je pense que c’est la meilleure façon pour tout le monde d’apprécier faire du surf au Pays Basque ». Je suis entièrement d’accord avec cette opinion et j’espère assister à un cours de surf à Biarritz au cours des prochaines semaines.
English:
For Basque people, surfing is one of the most important recreational activities in the region. The Basque Country coastline is around 200 kilometres from the south-west of France to the north of Spain, and due to the large swell of the water in the Bay of Biscay, it seems to me that the local people are truly proud to live near the best surfing spots in Europe.
On a one-day excursion to Biarritz in April, I was surprised to see that certain people were continuing to surf despite the strong wind and the heavy rain which were creating some very violent waves. This experience proved to me that Basque people are closely connected to the ocean and that they see it as a refuge and a place where they can have fun in all weather conditions.
Faire du surf au Pays Basque. Surfing in the Basque Country
However, now that summer has arrived, I feel that Basque people are more and more anxious to go out into the ocean. While talking with a friend who lives in Anglet, a commune in the Basque Country, he told me that the local people are even more eager to surf now due to the large number of tourists and enthusiasts who will soon flock to the region. In particular, I have heard that the 14th of July marks not only Bastille Day in France, a day to commemorate a historical attack during the French Revolution, but that equally marks the “official” beginning of the summer holidays.
For this reason, my friend explained to me that after this date the ocean is overcrowded with surfers and the situation will become dangerous. “When you are on your surfboard and you have found a good wave, someone’s head will appear from the water in front of you and you must jump off the board to avoid them. It’s crazy!”
It seems to me that this frustrates the local people because they cannot surf in the ocean without sharing it with tourists who are not accustomed to the waves of the region. I understand that tourists would like to experience surfing in the Basque Country during their summer holidays, but I find it unfair that Basque people have to miss out on this opportunity, especially when the water temperature and the waves are perfect.
A very busy Biarritz
Nevertheless, I have been told that surf schools are currently receiving more and more participants for their “surfing courses”. These sessions are generally held separate from the principal surfing areas and in shallower water, therefore enabling the more advanced surfers and the local people to also enjoy the areas that are best suited to their level. Consequently, both tourists and Basque people can enjoy the magnificent waves that this region offers while staying out of danger and avoiding confrontation.
My friend explained to me that “I think it’s the best way for everyone to enjoy surfing in the Basque Country”. I completely agree with this opinion and I hope to attend a surfing course in Biarritz over the next few weeks.
I did a day trip from France to San Sebastian which gave me the opportunity to meet up with my close friend. Despite the Spanish language around us we were able to practice our French together over some great food and a few beers. It was amazing to discuss our recent adventures, which is why I took this photo on the beach in order to remember such a brilliant memory with my friend!
